Getting to Teruel
Teruel is a small and charming city located in the region of Aragón, nestled between Madrid and Valencia, slightly to the north. Sitting at an altitude of 915 meters, the city is perched high on a plateau, giving it a distinct landscape and climate. I visited Teruel by car from Valencia and was constantly in awe of the stunning natural scenery along the way. The bridges in the area, with their elegant arches, reminded me of medieval and Renaissance styles, adding to the romantic atmosphere of the journey.
Teruel is known for its rich cultural heritage, historical architecture, and picturesque surroundings. The city is home to impressive churches, castles, and ancient murals that attract many visitors. Just outside the city, you’ll also find rivers, mountains, and remnants of old Roman roads, making it a perfect destination for both history lovers and nature enthusiasts.
First Impressions of Teruel
The architectural style of Teruel left a deep impression on me. Many of the buildings feature geometric structures—squares, pentagons, hexagons, and octagons—arranged in a visually harmonious way. The mix of Islamic decorative patterns and vibrant colors, combined with Christian and traditional Spanish elements, gave the city a uniquely exotic feel.
I visited in early to mid-October, and although autumn had settled in, the strong sunlight and high elevation made the temperature swing sharply between day and night. Still, the weather was beautiful and added to the charm of the visit.
The Cathedral and the Legend of “Los Amantes de Teruel”
One of the most remarkable aspects of Teruel is its cathedral—Catedral de Santa María de Mediavilla—which holds a fascinating and tragic legend.
The story dates back to the 13th century and tells of two childhood friends, Isabel and Diego. Diego fell deeply in love with Isabel, but because he came from a poor family, Isabel’s father refused to allow them to marry. Determined to win her hand, Diego left for the battlefield, promising to return within five years after earning a fortune.
Isabel waited faithfully, but Diego did not return within the promised time. Believing he had died, she eventually married another man named Pedro. Diego came back shortly afterward, only to find Isabel already wed. Heartbroken, he asked for a final kiss, but Isabel refused—out of loyalty to her marriage—even though she still loved him. Diego collapsed and died from grief on the spot. Overcome with sorrow, Isabel kissed his lifeless body and died as well.
Their remains are said to be preserved in the cathedral, and visitors can view their tombs, which lie beneath statues of the couple. I was so intrigued by the legend that I asked multiple times to make sure I had understood it correctly. The story is well known in Spain and deeply moving to those who hear it.
Inside the cathedral, you’ll also find exceptional examples of Teruel’s architectural mastery. The space is richly adorned with geometric patterns, and the interior structures incorporate various polygonal forms, especially squares and octagons.
Lunch and Local Recommendations
For lunch, I enjoyed a set menu for about €14.50, which included a starter, a main course, dessert, and a drink. While not particularly cheap, the food was delicious and satisfying. The location of the restaurant was convenient, close to the main attractions, and easy to find. Teruel is also known for its wine, so I highly recommend enjoying a glass while you’re there.
Final Thoughts
The legend of Isabel and Diego, combined with the unique architectural style of the city, makes Teruel an unforgettable destination. Their bones are still said to rest in the cathedral, and the story continues to be cherished by Spaniards to this day. After spending a meaningful half-day exploring the city, I moved on to my next destination—but Teruel remains one of the most memorable stops on my journey through Spain.
Just a note: entering the cathedral is only allowed during designated hours and must be done with a guided tour. The tours are conducted in Spanish, so keep that in mind when planning your visit.